There aren’t many places where you can sip a latte and eat a sausage roll whilst sitting in the garden area of a former Cold War control tower. Well, that’s exactly what I did with a couple of dog walking friends, Dave and Paul, at Greenham Common today. The Watchtower Café, part of the Greenham Common Control Tower visitor centre, is what a tourist information centre would describe as having a unique blend of heritage, community, and jolly good selection of coffees.

Symbol of Nuclear Tension

The tower itself is one of the last surviving buildings from the RAF base that dominated the Common for decades. Once a symbol of military tension and nuclear standoffs before Russia attacked us with Facebook misinformation bots instead, the site has been transformed into something a tad more welcoming. In 2018, after years of planning and restoration, the tower reopened as a visitor centre and café, breathing new life into an ugly yet intriguing building that had once seemed destined for dereliction.

Inside, the café is warm and friendly, offering freshly made sandwiches, sausage rolls, cakes and hot drinks, a fully justified albeit calorific reward after a walk across the heath and through woodland. On a fine day (today was dull and chilly) you can sit outside with views stretching over the Common, often with cows grazing in the distance and an abundance of birdsong (I saw a jay and a bullfinch amongst the crows, kites and magpies). The café is also dog-friendly, which was handy as we had three of the little blighters between us.

A Cafe With a History

Beyond the café, the Control Tower tells its own remarkable story which I think I am keen to investigate further (I like this sort of stuff). From what Dave told me, there are exhibitions that chart the history of the Common, from grazing land to wartime airfield, from nuclear base to peace camp, and finally to the nature reserve it is today. I didn’t have time today but a lady in the cafe told me you can climb the observation deck and be rewarded with 360-degree views across the heathland. A fine way to witness how much of the landscape has changed, and how much it has been reclaimed by nature after being at the very heart of a flirtation with nuclear oblivion.

So, I learnt today that The Watchtower Café isn’t just a place for coffee with your dog walking pals; it’s a hub for the local community, a heritage centre, and a starting (or ending) point for exploring one of the most remarkable open spaces in southern England.

A rare heartwarming story in what often feels like a dark time.